Uzbekistan - The Jewel of the Silk Road

Tashkent, Samarkand, Bhukara & Khiva, Uzbekistan.

Uzbekistan is the crown among the jewels of the Silk Road route, and often considered to be the poster child of this ancient pass.

Whilst I highly recommend any visitor explore Uzbekistan, the easiest way to visit this incredible country is through a guided tour. Uzebek is the primary language, followed by Russian and not many places speak any English. However don’t let that put you off as with the warmth and patience of the people is overwhelming and, with help of a guide, the country unlocks, becoming far easier to navigate. Flying into Tashkent is simple with regular international flights and Uzbekistan Airways flies directly from Heathrow Airport. Before you fly, make sure to take US dollars on you, as the Uzbek Som is a closed currency. You won’t find any currency exchange shops either, but most hotels have a dedicated counter for tourists to change US dollars into their colourful notes. This exchange often only relys on crisp $50 or $100 notes to be converted, so it is worth checking your cash before your departure.

Tashkent

Tashkent itself is a sprawling central Asian metropropolis, a mix between imposing soviet style skyscrapers and softer floral landscaping. Whilst most visitors tend to head straight out to the ancient cities of Samarkand and Bhukara, it is definitely worth spending time getting to know the capital.

In the middle of the city is Tamberlane Square, named after Uzbekistan’s ruthless conqueror from six hundred years ago. You can still find him here, as a statue riding high on a lone stone stallion in the centre of the square, looking down on his people. Deep beneath his feet lies a sprawling network of underground stations making up the subway. Each station is unique in its splendor, decorated by elaborate tiles, glistening chandeliers and murals. With each train comes a whirlwind of hustle and bustle as locals Uzbeks go about their business, but between the arrivals the stations feel elegant, tranquil. The Cosmo station is dedicated to the Soviet cosmonauts and certainly worth a visit. You don’t need to travel far on the line, and even just taking a lucky-dip of a few stops will be a feast for your eyes.

Uzebekistan was once such a prominent player in the Islamic World and religion is in a period of revival in the country. The Hasti Imom is a modest complex, but with huge symbolism as it is home to the oldest surviving Quoran in the world. The Centre for Islamic Civilisation next door opened its doors to visitors in 2023 and provides an educative journey between the past and future of this wealthy culture to inspire the next generation.

Humble in its culinary fame, Uzbek dishes are as much a part of the Silk Road as its traded goods. The headline dish, plov, is a flavourful rice based dish and oozes with soft lamb and vegetables. For a taste, head to Chorsu Market- one of the largest in Uzebekistan. Inside, raw ingredients are haggled over by mothers and snatched quickly by upcoming chefs. The aromas coming from the street vendors are enough to make your tongue melt in anticipation. I’d urge you to try the hot lagman noodle soup, naturally dyed green with fresh spinach.

Transport in the country is developing. There are road links between all the major cities and high speed trains have now halved the time of travel. Even the domestic airline, Uzbekistan Airways delivers a well run operation between all the major tourist cities. The high speed train from Tashkent to Samarkand has allowed even the softest tourists to see deeper into the country in just over two hours. Before this, people would rely on hours of driving across basic roads to reach one of the oldest and most famous cities in Central Asia.

Samarkand

Samarkand has a lot to live up to, with a name that oozes mystery and grandeur. Despite keeping up with modern influences, it has still managed to hold onto pockets of its old-age charm. Registan Square is the most famous picture postcard in the whole country. Three majestic madrassas square up to each other, forming an open square that is so spectacular it can rival some of the world’s greatest wonders. By day, the square is a pompous display of wealth and the country’s old dedication to the religious studies that were once taught in its walls. At night though, the square is closed off and an electric energy in the city begins- the madrassa walls are projected with beams of coloured lights making the square look like a box of quality streets and local music blares out of speakers in the parks. The streets are filled with families and young teenagers playing. There is the smell of fresh popcorn filling the air and small children run around with light up sticks and brightly coloured foil balloons.

Blue mosaic is this country’s headline identification. Some of the most impressive examples can be found only a thirty minute walk from Registan Square, at Shah-i-Zinda, or ‘Tomb of the living King’. This bejewelled necropolis narrows along the base of the Hill of Afrasiyab like a sapphire mosaic siq. The site encompasses twenty mausoleums from the 14th century, each adored with Persian poems and scripture painted with many shades of aquamarine and royal blue. Entry to this magical complex costs 40,000 som (£3.20).

Amir Temur’s resting place is another impressive sight. The Gur-e Amir Mausoleum translates as ‘Tomb of the King’ in Persian. Opulent gold plating adorned the walls and domed ceiling. Inside, the far ruling commander lies alongside two of his sons and grandson, Ulugbek. There is a curse associated with this tomb, threatening bad luck on those who attempt to open the coffin. Folklore, perhaps, but when Soviet scientists opened it in 1941, they were invaded by Germany just a few days later. This caused such panic that the Soviets quickly put the coffin back together and it has not been opened again since.

Amir Temur’s grandson, Mirzo Ulugbek is a ruler in Uzbek history that firmly left his footprint on the way the world is today. His astronomy work has made considerable contributions to the history of astronomy. His observatory, just outside Samarkand was once considered the most advanced observatory in the world and provided coordinates for over a thousand stars. His team created the first astronomical handbook, which remained in use until the 19th century as the most comprehensive book of its kind.

Lush vinyards aren’t the first thing that may cross your mind when you think about Uzbekistan, yet in the outskirts of Samarkand is a portal to Provence. You can sample celebrated Chardonnays, Merlots and dry blends at the Bagizagan vineyard in Taylak-Ata. With six decades of experience, this well established winery is a great place to spend an afternoon enjoying the company of friends with a glass of wine in hand.

The tasting adventure here costs $32 and six wines come generously flowing throughout the tasting. Local charcuterie is offered alongside.

Bhukara

Bhukara is the city to buy local silks and textiles. Still very much a trading town, it maintains the charm of the Silk Road way of life. Bright coloured silks in traditional patterns are draped wall after wall, snake charmers line the streets and cafes spill out onto the roads filled with travellers comparing stories. Without the same expectations and touristic pressures of Samarkand, the city flourishes with a laid back atmosphere and quickly becomes familiar to its passers through.

One of Bhukara’s most defining features is the Kaylon Minaret which stretches 150ft feet into the sky. It is said that even Ghenghis Khan was so in awe that it was the only thing left untouched in the city when he passed through.

In the evenings, the Nodir Devon Begi Madrasasi becomes the focus of entertainment. Traditional dance and music is performance along with a fashion show for local fabric artisans, who, of course, are on hand to purchase from at the end of the show. Despite this tourist trap, it is a very well put together display of skills and audience participation is encouraged with local dances and traditions.

Khiva

Khiva is a desert outpost city, that becomes an ancient time capsule from your first step through the stone walls. This whole city is a UNESO World Heritage site, yet despite this, it breaths as a living museum, home to 93,000 locals. Street sellers fill the beige horizon with commotion. Young boys run around selling small toys and fur hats. Rich smells waft from family kitchens, some of whom open their doors to tourists for cooking classes.

You can climb up onto the Itchan Kala walls, which provide the best view of the city from above. There is no doubt of the city’s desert location, with much of the panorama washed in a sand colour and dotted with aquas and greens from the mosaics of national monuments. It is a maze to get up into the walls but half the fun is in exploring.

Whilst immersing yourself in the city, stay in the Orient Star hotel. This old madrassa has now opened its old rooms as a boutique bed and breakfast. The traditional rooms all face into a central courtyard, a place of tranquility away from the hustle and bustle of tourists. If calm is what you’re looking for, catch the Juma Mosque in the morning and you won’t hep but breath a sign of calmness. Row upon row of carved wooden pillars, all enclosed within a wooden structure. Light pieces in from glass windows above, proving in waterfalls of light which flow into pools of flowerbeds beneath them.

The Toshhovli Palace is one of many palaces in the city. Built in 1838, it still has the richly decorated features of a culture that feels much further away than 200 years ago. The Khan built peaceful courtyards and aiwans for his wives, a harem for his mistresses and plentiful living and courtrooms for a life of entertaining. It is a pleasant place to wander and enjoy some tranquility.

Uzbekistan’s prominent place upon the Silk Road has made it a stopping place for travellers since 200AD, yet it still manages to shroud itself in a veil of mystery for those outside the country. Its culture is rich and despite a huge influence on the world, the country is modest in its achievements. For the first time though, it is really starting to put its name back on the map and wanting to show the rest of the world that it is an Aladdin’s cave ready to be dived into.